Northern Arizona, a couple summers ago. What a relief it was to drive away from 7000 feet  and snow and head down and north to Snowflake AZ. Certain things gave me a chuckle, like  "Alaska Oil" gas stations and "Our Lady of the Snow" Catholic church.   After driving  only fifteen miles it seemed like a different state. Northeastern  Arizona is a strange combination of LDS (Mormon)  towns, Indian reservations and fossilized trees.   I thought of  the joke that ended the movie, "Raising Arizona."  It was nice to be back in "greater Utah" in some ways. Nobody could  lay out a town like Brigham Young.  I chose one of those wide streets and pulled a U-turn, just because I  could.   Once I asked a couple men of good taste which state had the best looking women. We all agreed: Utah. They exude  wholesomeness, an underrated  quality in a society saturated with media smut.   There was another wholesomeness that you can appreciate best when you compare it ...