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Walking off Trail

I love the geology and topography of this spot, on the eastern edge of the San Juan's, near Little Mexico, CO. It's a land of decomposed laccoliths, with just the perfect balance of the Horizontal and the Vertical; of partly cloudy September skies; and of cliffs and ridgelines in the foreground, and big mountains in the distance. Even the vegetation is balanced between grass, small cactus, and junipers. 

My dog was picking up stickers the first day or two, but then she learned how to avoid them. How is that even possible? Dogs are gifted animals when it comes to any kind of motion.

As is often the case, I imitated my dog. There are no hiking trails as such around here, and the mountain bike was in the shop getting new brakes, so I decided to go bushwhacking across the grass/cactus fields. It was cool enough on these September mornings that I wasn't too worried about rattlesnakes. Over 80 F they are a consideration around here.

Dogs know they don't need no stinkin' trails, so why should their humans?


There is something liberating about walking off trail, walking free over the landscape. Walking a trail seems so arbitrary, unnatural, and confining. Of course, to bushwhack like this you need to be on a grassland or desert, rather than in one of the National Thickets, managed by the US Forest Disservice. (But sometimes you can bushwhack in ponderosa forests.)

Let's see now, you step out the door of your little house on this prickly prairie and wonder where to go. Well, that's easy enough. If this were the lower desert you would choose a walkable arroyo, but it is too high altitude for that, so something else is needed.

The exposed volcanic layer is in the upper right of the photo.

Here the best choice was to see if it is possible to climb over the exposed volcanic cliff edge that was visible for miles. It was horizontally grand, but vertically humble. It only took a couple minutes to be at the exposed cliff face. It was only 20-30 feet tall, but too vertical to climb. So I walked along it, probing for weak spots in its defenses. 

Notice how I was not walking along, mushing and gushing about how pretty something was. The whole thing was more of a problem to be solved. Military metaphors popped up. I had turned into a type of predator.

I finally found a spot for the final assault. My dog had to be lifted over a couple spots. She hates that. Geezer though I be, I was feeling like a boy playing "king of the mountain", or fantasizing about some medieval romance where the knight takes the castle. At the top of the cliff it seemed wise to build a rock cairn so that I could retreat gracefully, if that were needed. 

I walked along the top of the laccolith. It was glorious. There is always a breeze near a cliff-line, always birds playing with ridge-lift. But how was I going to get off this thing? I finally found a spot. 

Halfway through the descent I noticed that my dog was missing. I called to her and blew my whistle. And there she was, at the top of the volcanic cliff, backlit by the morning sun, looking down at her Pops. Dogs seem to dislike excessive verticality. I had to climb back to the top to coax her down. On the descent I offered to lift her down at places, but dogs prefer to jump free, even if that means risking a sprain.

Off the top of my head I don't remember if the poet Wordsworth or the Yankee blockhead, Thoreau, went on their daily walks on trails or "overland," or even if they made the distinction. Maybe one of the readers knows.

At any rate I am almost glad that I have partially overlooked the pleasure and importance of bushwhacking because it gives me a "new" sport to play with in my senescence. Recently I wrote about different techniques for making hiking more interesting. It's embarrassing to have neglected bushwhacking.

Hiking off trail is to hiking trails what dispersed camping is to campgrounds. It is real life: an intelligent and competent predator, exercising all of its senses and shrewdness to solve problems, spot opportunities, and avoid risks. 

Comments

It looks as if you were pretty low in elevation from the photos. That resembles the land/mountains around Patagonia, no wonder you are in love.
It's weird, there are rattlesnakes throughout colorado, especially in the rocky foothills on the front range and western slopes. they are around montrose and several mountain towns like Craig, but for some reason none around ouray/ridgway...
edlfrey said…
I believe Thoreau sauntered overland.

In his essay "Walking" he says "Some of my townsmen, it is true, can remember, and have described to me some walks which they took ten years ago, in which they were so blessed as to lose themselves for half an hour in the woods, but I know very well that they have confined themselves to the highway ever since, whatever pretensions they may make to belong to this select class."
He then goes on to say " I think that I cannot preserve my health and spirits unless I spend four hours a day at least — and it is commonly more than that — sauntering through the woods and over the hills and fields absoutely free from all wordly engagements."
Or, "When we walk we naturally go to the fields and woods; what would become of us if we walked only in a garden or a mall?"

The sort of things I would expect you to say!
It looks low because it is so dry. But it is 7900 feet. I credit the rain shadow effect.
Considering the part of the country where he walked, going off trail/road must have been very slow going!
Bob said…
My dog hates a lift too, and She suffers occasionally because of it!
Yes, I just don't know why they don't trust their human to lift them off a hip-high ledge. You see them standing on slippery sheet metal in the back of a pickup truck. Virtually nothing is holding them in. But they trust their human's driving, apparently.
XXXXX said…
Robert Frost (1874–1963). Mountain Interval. 1920.

The Road Not Taken


TWO roads diverged in a yellow wood,
And sorry I could not travel both
And be one traveler, long I stood
And looked down one as far as I could
To where it bent in the undergrowth;

Then took the other, as just as fair,
And having perhaps the better claim,
Because it was grassy and wanted wear;
Though as for that the passing there
Had worn them really about the same,

And both that morning equally lay
In leaves no step had trodden black.
Oh, I kept the first for another day!
Yet knowing how way leads on to way,
I doubted if I should ever come back.

I shall be telling this with a sigh
Somewhere ages and ages hence:
Two roads diverged in a wood, and I—
I took the one less traveled by,
And that has made all the difference.

It fit in quite well with the theme, didn't it? Thanks, George.
XXXXX said…
I know we have all seen it before. Your prose is equally metaphoric. How often do we all think back on the road not taken way back when and where would we be now if we had?
I try NOT to think back to the road not taken! It tends to chew a person up, and doesn't do any good.
XXXXX said…
Well, I think there is a bigger point here. I know what you mean about getting chewed up, but if one can get past that, chances are it wouldn't have been as great as our imaginations tend to think it would be. We all have our lessons in life to learn one way or another.
Jackpineseed said…
I like to bushwack on my Fat bike. Ya know, the mt. bikes with the 4inch,5psi tires. They let you take on diverse terrain, terrain you'd never do on a regular bike. Improved my balance and technical skills. Fun.
Kinda expensive but for me worth every penny.
All the best,
Jeff
I've always wondered where people go with fat bikes. In this part of the country (the Southwest) I suppose that arroyos would be the best choice. A 2.0--2.3 inch tire won't work.

I'm not sure if the BLM or Forest Service would even allow you to "bushwhack" in general on a fat tire. I've never looked into it.
Jackpineseed said…
Fat bikes started out as snow and sand bikes but increasingly people, myself included, have found they make good trail and off trail bikes,especially when you desire more sure footedness as opposed to speed.

As to the legality of off trail use, here in the Northern Appalachians, it hasn't been an issue that I've heard about, yet. That's probably due to the very limited numbers of them being used that way and the small impact of their soft tires.

The real point of my comment,( sorry I wasn't clear at all,bad me), was about the similarities between hiking and biking in exploring off trail,aka bushwhacking.

Thanks for your insight about the Southwest and specifically about riding the arroyos.

Happy bushwhacking!
Thanks for the information JackPineSeed. Perhaps I will see a bunch of fat bikes near Moab if I am there a couple days from now.